It used to be fairly simple to know what size of bike you were buying. For example, a 54 cm frame usually meant that the seat tube was 54 centimeters.  Most often this was measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the top tube. Top tubes were almost always level with the ground, and were usually within a centimeter of the length of the seat tube (i.e. traditional geometry, figure 1). Bikes were often built in 1 cm increments, so not only was it easier to know what you were buying, but there was a wider range of sizes from which to pick than today.   

Figure 1. Traditional frame geometry

Sloping top tubes and compact geometry

Nowadays, a 54 cm bike may not necessarily mean the seat tube is 54 cm, and it may not even mean that the top tube is 54 cm. This confusion stems from the fact that most road bikes no longer have a level top tube - in other words the top tube isn't parallel with the ground (what is known as sloping or compact geometry, figure 2). Bikes built this way can have much shorter seat tubes than they used to, especially if the top tube has a slope greater than a few degrees, so the actual seat tube length is not going be of much in help in determining the frame size any longer.  Since seat tube length is no longer a good benchmark for sizing, the top tube length has become the new yardstick for bike sizing.

Figure 2. Sloping/compact geometry

Top Tube length defined

Since top tube length is now the best way to determine a bike's true size, it's important to have an understanding of how top tube lengths are measured, especially on a bike with a sloping top tube.  If the top tube is level (again, like in figure 1), then the measurement given will probably be its actual length - simple. If the top tube is sloping (figure 2), the bike manufacturer may list both the actual top tube length and/or the effective top tube length in the geometry specs. The effective length can also be known as the bike's "horizontal" or "virtual" top tube length (again, figure 2). Whatever the nomenclature, the meaning is the same - it's a theoretical number that represents what the length of the top tube would have been had the frame actually been built with a level top tube. The effective top tube length is the best way to know exactly what size bike you are buying. Here's the problem - many bike companies don't list the size of their bike to correspond to the top tube length, or they list the bikes by sizes such as Small, Medium, and Large, which really tells you nothing about the true size of the frame.

Some confusing real world examples

Let's say you know you need a bike with a 54 cm top tube. Here are some of the options you can find at the shop where I do my bike fits (Revolution Bike Shop):

1. 50s Colnago CLX 3.0 - The size refers to the seat tube length. The effective top tube is actually 54cm.
2. Medium/53cm Look 566. Although Look lists this bike as a 53cm, not a single tube actually measures 53cm! The effective top tube is 54.2 cm.
3. 54cm/Medium Focus Izalco - The effective top tube is 54.3 cm.
4. 54 cm Felt F or Z series - the effective top tube is 54.5 cm.

So, only one of these bikes actually has a 54 cm effective top tube - the Colnago, yet it's a size 50s (the "s" stands for sloping). It's no wonder I see so many people on bikes that don't fit quite right - given the variety of ways manufacturers size bikes these days it's easy to get confused.

Know your size

The moral of the story is that you really have to pay attention to the frame geometry charts, especially if you are buying off of the internet, and haven't had the chance to do a test ride. It should go without saying that the first step in your bike purchasing journey should begin by:

• You travel, pack your bike, and need to build it up again.
• Something comes loose and slips, usually the seatpost or handlebars
• You have work done at a shop, and they accidentally change something
• You install a new stem, seatpost, saddle, and/or handlebars
• You want to duplicate your position on another bike
• You want to test ride a bike and get your position close to your current bike 

The measurements you'll want to record for road bikes* are as follows: 

1. Saddle height
2. Saddle height over bars (saddle to handlebar drop)
3. Saddle to handlebar distance
4. Saddle to hood distance
5. Saddle tilt
6. Saddle setback (saddle fore/aft) 

*Time trial and tri positions are bit more involved, so additional measurements should be recorded. The Park Tool link below will guide you through the process. 

It's important to make sure that your measurements are repeatable and consistent, and it's usually best to use protocols that are widely recognized and accepted. I use Park Tool's Road Positioning Chart to record everything; they also have a great online tutorial which will demonstrate how each of the measurements should be taken. Here are the links where you can download both the PDFs, and view the tutorials: 

• Park Tool Road Positioning Chart (one is for road, and the other for TT and Tri)
• Park Tool MTB Positioning Chart 

Here are my thoughts on each of the key measurements: 

Saddle Height 

The distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the bottom of a board or straight edge, placed across the length of the saddle (taken in line with the seat tube). Is this your actual saddle height? Probably not, because most saddles are not flat, so there will usually be a gap between the bottom of the board and the top of the saddle. The flatter your saddle, the closer this measurement will be to your actual saddle height. The more cupped your saddle, the farther this will be from your actual height. The purpose of this measurement isn't to necessarily capture your actual saddle height, but rather to establish a method that will allow you accurately record changes or transfer the same saddle height to another bike. 

Saddle height over bars (saddle to handlebar drop) 

Park Tool has two methods for recording this, and I prefer the one where you take two measurements and subtract the difference. First, record the distance from the floor to the bottom of a board or straight edge across the saddle's length (taken at the nose of the saddle). Next, record the distance from the floor to the tops of the handlers. Subtract the second measurement from the first one, and you'll know how high your handlebars are over your saddle. Keep in mind that since the first measurement is taken at the nose of the saddle, any change in your saddle tilt will also change this measurement. If you raise the nose of your saddle, it will cause the saddle to handlebar distance to increase.    

Saddle to handlebar distance 

This is the distance from the nose of the saddle to center of the handlebars at the stem. All of the following can change this distance: saddle height, fore/aft position, adding or removing stem spacers, and/or stem changes (either a different length or different rise). This measurement is typically the benchmark for "reach to the handlebars." 

Saddle to hood distance 

Although not recorded on the Park Tool Chart, I also recommend taking this measurement. It is the distance from the nose of the saddle to the tip of the brake lever hoods. This distance will change for all the same reasons mentioned just above, but this distance can also change even if the saddle to handlebar distance remains the same. Why? If you change to handlebars with different reach dimensions, rotate your handlebars, and/or change to a component group with different hoods, your saddle to hood distance can change, yet the saddle to handlebar distance at the stem will remain the same. 

Saddle tilt 

Using a straight edge across the length of the saddle, record the angle from horizontal using an angle finder, or even better, a digital level. I also recommend recording the level of the saddle in the approximate area where your sit bones rest. I have written an entire tutorial on this critical, but often overlooked, measurement. 

Saddle fore/aft (saddle setback) 

Drop a plumb bob from the nose of the saddle and measure the distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the plumb line. This measurement can change if you change the tilt of your saddle, even though you may not have changed the fore/aft position of the saddle on the rails.

Changing Saddles

You'll notice one constant in every one these measurements - the saddle. Change your saddle and almost every measure can change, especially if the new saddle has a different length. Changing saddles can be one of the most significant changes you can make to your equipment and it can really take some time to get everything dialed in to the way you had everything before the change. My advice when you are getting a new bike is to use the same saddle you've been used to riding, otherwise its going to be a real chore trying to replicate your position from your old bike. Of course, if your current saddle is not comfortable, then by all means make the switch.

Lastly, many of my clients are cyclists who had recently purchased a bike, and then found they couldn't get things to feel quite right, or even ended up in pain and discomfort; they simply couldn't figure out what had changed. Carefully recording your position and keeping the same saddle (or a new one of the same make and model) goes a long way towards knowing exactly how a different bike may change your position. 

Please join me this Saturday, October 22nd from 12-5PM for the Grand Opening of both Revolution Bike Shop and HERevolution (women's and kids multisport clothing and gear).

Both Revolution Bike Shop and HERevolution are located at:

235 S. Hwy. 101

Solana Beach, CA  92075

(800) 985-7814

Here's a link to the Google map.

As many of you already know, all my bike fits are now done at the bike shop, and I'd love meet those of you who haven't had a chance to stop by and visit my new home away from home.

It will be a great day of fun with FREE GIVEAWAYS, LIVE MUSIC, FOOD and DRINKS, TEST RIDE BIKES, KID FRIENDLY ACTIVITIES, and 10% OFF ALL PURCHASES MADE THE DAY OF THE GRAND OPENENING.  

The shop is a dealer for Felt, Focus, Look, Colgago and Guru, and we'll have extra bikes on hand for the Grand Opening so you can test ride some of the new 2012 bike and killer closeout deals on select 2011 models.

You can find road, Tri, mountain, communter, and cruiser bikes, in addition to a full service repair shop headed by Dan "Dano" Rock.

I'll look forward to seeing you this Saturday at Southern California's only His and Hers Bike shop.

There are also certain aches, pains and even injuries that definitely fall into the self inflicted wounds category – a situation where the cyclist themselves may be their own worst enemy and a bike fit may not help.  Are you doing something while logging saddle time that may cause pain that is completely avoidable, and can often be resolved without seeking professional help? Maybe you have even already been to a bike fitter for a nagging problem (maybe even me), yet you continue to be tormented by any of the following:  

• numb hands
• sore shoulders
• tightness between the shoulder blades
• stiff neck
• sore/tired lower back
• knee pain
• Achilles tendon pain
• Foot pain at ball, and/or toe numbness  

If you’d like to know some of the possible causes of these all too common self inflicted wounds, read on.

Locked arms 

It’s astounding how common this problem is, especially among recreational cyclists. Do you lock your arms out straight when riding in the hoods position? If so, you greatly increase the likelihood that you’ll get numb fingers and hands, sore shoulders, tightness between the shoulder blades, a sore neck, and even a sore back. Why? You are not using one of your body’s built in shock absorbers, which is your elbows. Always strive to keep a slight bend in your elbow, maybe 10-20 degrees; this will help keep the road vibration and jarring from beating up your body. Cyclists who lock their arms out straight also have a tendency to bear their upper body weight on their hands, which is almost certain to cause discomfort of some kind. For some, these locked arms are simply a bad habit that needs to be broken, but there are also definitely bike fitting issues that can cause these problems, and some cyclists simply can’t maintain a bend in their arms due to poor position or an ill fitting bike. Locked arms are often the result of a saddle that is tilted downwards (it seems I mention this in nearly every article), and/or being too stretched out on the bike, and/or having the handlebars positioned too far below the saddle – all are issues that can be remedied during a bike fit.  

Cadence/RPMs too low and/or pushing big gears 

Grinding away in big gears is a great way to cause knee problems, usually at the top or front of the knee. It’s also a great way to fatigue the lower back and cause Achilles tendon soreness, especially when too large of a gear is used during extended climbing efforts.  Pushing big gears combined with low pedaling revolutions can also contribute to, or cause, toe numbness and foot discomfort.  I recommend trying to keep your average RPMs (revolutions per minute) at 85+ on flat to rolling terrain and 70+ when climbing. Some cyclists will do okay staying within my guidelines on flat terrain, but will really struggle when climbing. The best solution for monitoring your RPMs is to buy a cycling computer with cadence functions, and then work toward retraining your leg muscles to spin more quickly. Some cyclists would be better served by actually changing their front chainrings, and will want to switch to a compact crankset (commonly a 50/34 tooth combination). If you are already using a compact crankset, then you might also consider a rear cassette with a lower bottom gear (i.e. 26-28 teeth; SRAM offers their Apex group with a 32 tooth low gear).  Less experienced or heavier cyclists may even be better off with a triple crankset, which will give them a much wider range of lower gears from which to pick.  If you think you are too strong to need smaller gearing, but can’t maintain at least 70 RPMs when climbing long grades, your ego may end up causing some possible down time due to sore a sore knee or Achilles tendon.

Riding too much 

As we age it becomes ever more critical to allow muscles and connective tissue to repair after hard or long efforts. I hate to be stating the obvious, but as we get older, we simply don’t recover as well as we once did. Ligaments, tendons, and cartilage seem to be particularly susceptible to strains and tears as the body ages. Adequate rest needs to be part of every cyclist’s game plan. Many will ride for years and years with poor positioning and less than ideal biomechanics without the slightest pain, and then suddenly something will go wrong, usually after about 40 years of age; I see these folks on a weekly basis. It would be nice if I could offer simple guidelines so you could gauge the amount of down time required to avoid pain and injuries, but there are simply too many variables involved – every cyclist’s situation in unique. Poor bike fit and the stress of exercise are but two factors in the equation, as there is an almost endless list of things that can inhibit the body’s ability to recover, with work and family stress at the top of the list. If you are an experienced cyclist and you find yourself with an ache or pain that you can’t connect to a sudden change in bike position, and you ride hard and/or long more than three days per week, your body may be telling you it’s time to cut back. It’s also possible that a long dormant issue has finally reared its ugly head, your body can no longer repair itself between efforts, and you’re going to need some professional bike fitting help.

The “weekend warrior” syndrome 

Of course, the flip side of riding too much is not riding enough.  Even if you have ideal position on the bike and near perfect pedaling biomechanics, if you go out once a week or only on the weekends, and ride hard and long, you’re more than likely going to have some discomfort.  This is especially true for those who ride hard on both Saturday and Sunday. I also find those who do a group ride on the weekends, but don’t ride the rest of the week tend to really dig far too deep. Many “weekend warriors” do avoid injury, since their bodies have adequate time to recover before the next suffer fest, but they are often riding in discomfort. This discomfort can of course be caused by issues related to poor bike fit, but it can also be a simple matter of lack of miles – a tired back, butt, and legs can be your constant companions once your weekly ride extends past a couple of hours. If you experience discomfort on even short rides during your weekly outing, then it is probably time to see a bike fitter.

Choice of frame material

Aluminum frames can beat up your body; this despite the use of a carbon fork. I know there are some frame builders out there who may take exception to that statement, but I rode on an aluminum frame with a fairly relaxed geometry (shallow seat tube, longer wheelbase, longer chainstays) for a couple of years and would never do so again. I found aluminum to be fairly harsh and jarring, which is not going to help with a wide variety of discomfort and pain, most notably hand numbness, neck and shoulder pain, lower back fatigue, and saddle soreness.  Many newer cyclists don’t want to spend over a thousand dollars on a new bike, and since most manufacturers will offer aluminum frames on their entry level bikes, it should come as no surprise that I see many new to the sport complaining of issues I can often trace back to jarring. Steel frames are more forgiving, as is titanium, but those frame materials are rarely seen on an entry level performance road bike, especially titanium.  Steel used to be very common on lower priced bikes, but nowadays it’s usually aluminum. Carbon fiber is usually going to be the next available option after aluminum, and if you can afford the extra money, I’d strongly suggest doing so.  As the next best option, which is usually not quite as expensive as a complete carbon fiber bike, you might also consider an aluminum frame with carbon fiber chainstays, seatstays, and/or seat tube. Lastly, aluminum can be a good choice for those who compete (particularly in criteriums), and want a bike that is both light for climbing, and super stiff for sprinting.

Many widely practiced bike fitting protocols and procedures are based on little more than traditions handed down from fitter to fitter through the years. In many cases there is good reason to follow these rules - time and again they have proven to be the best approach. Yet, there are other fitting protocols founded on "wisdom" that amounts to little more than old wife's tales, such as setting the distance from nose of your saddle to the center of the handlebars to match the distance from your elbow to the tip of your middle finger. Another one of my favorites is setting your reach to the bars based on whether or not the front hub is obscured by the handlebars when you're in the hoods position (I've already written two articles discussing reach to the handlebars, both here and here, and you'll find neither of these outdated methods mentioned).  

Metatarsal bones (blue/green area)

Standard Fore/Aft Cleat Positioning

Another standard fitting protocol that may not be entirely correct is the traditional way the fore/aft position of the cleat on the shoe has been determined. Conventional wisdom almost always uses some variation of the following: 1. locate the first metatarsal head - the boney bump on the outside of the foot, just below the big toe (see the above illustration; it's the area where the green shading meets the light grey area below the big toe); and then 2. affix the centerline of the cleat so that it runs directly through this spot or just behind it (you'll now have the cleat positioned over the ball of your foot). Also, the larger your feet, the farther behind the first metatarsal head the cleat should be positioned (up to 1cm or even more). Following this guideline, it is oftentimes difficult for those with an above average foot length (US size 10.5+, or Euro size 44+) to position the cleat far enough to the rear.

Midfoot/Arch/Heal Cleat Position

There are fitters who have broken with tradition, and have taken an extremely different approach to cleat positioning, advocating a midfoot/arch placement. I even saw a guy out riding recently with the cleat placed directly under the heel of his shoe. I'll admit, I have no experience with these methods, since both would require drilling new cleat holes in the shoes and affixing new threads. I don't possess the expertise to attempt such a solution, so this is one theory that will go untested in my practice, at least for the time being. It's also worth noting that moving the cleats this far to the rear could create a potentially dangerous amount of toe overlap with the front wheel.     

Finding the Sweet Spot

I'd like you to try an experiment. If you have access to some carpeted stairs, try bounding up them bare footed, taking maybe two stairs at time. Notice where you launch off of the bottom of your foot with each stride up the stairs (I'll bet it's not your midfoot/arch). Wouldn't it make sense to affix the cleats so that the center of the pedal spindle (also center of the cleat) is also located in this same place on your foot? Bounding up a flight stairs seems to closely mimic standing on the pedals during a climbing effort or sprinting, doesn't it? Those are definitely two instances where you want maximum force applied to the pedals. I know this little experiment doesn't exactly qualify as a scientific study demonstrating where peak forces are generated on the foot when cycling, but it certainly passes the common sense test. It's too bad we can't precisely locate this sweet spot on the balls of our feet and shoes, and affix the cleats there, as well.

Another Alternative

So, somewhere around the ball of the foot seems to make the most sense for the cleat placement, yet following this guideline still leaves many cyclists plagued with toe numbness, burning sensations, and pressure points ("hot spots") on the balls of their feet.  The typical advice to cure these issues is almost always to move the cleat even farther back, placing the cleat closer to the heel - sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't, and sometimes it make the situation worse.  I find this solution effective for a surprisingly small number of my clients. Often, foot discomfort can also be cured or alleviated by moving the center of the cleat ahead of the first metatarsal head, approximately in line with the second metatarsal head (again, see the above illustration; it would be the "knuckle" located below the second toe, which is actually closer to the front of the foot). Could the almost universally accepted approach for cleat placement simply be wrong? Is the second metatarsal head the better place for the fore/aft positioning of the cleat? I haven't come to any definitive conclusions, but it appears this location is certainly a better spot for some cyclists.  

Trial and Error

Today's super stiff carbon soled shoes can sometimes minimize the need for locating the ideal fore/aft position of the cleat. Yet, for some, these same stiff soles actually seem contribute to foot discomfort, so it seems likely that cleat placement still plays some role in foot comfort, regardless of sole material or stiffness. The "best" cleat position may also be partly determined by one's preferred pedaling cadence - I've noticed those with higher pedaling speeds (95+ revolutions per minute) tend to prefer the cleat more forward on the shoe, while those with lower RPMs seem to prefer a more rearward position.  Saddle height, saddle fore/aft position, and saddle tilt may also have some impact on cleat positioning. I could go on and on, but I think you get the idea. Ultimately, this is one fitting protocol that doesn't lend itself well to a simple formula or universal procedure - the ideal fore/aft cleat placement may vary widely from cyclist to cyclist, and it may take a bit of trial and error to get it just right.

Persistent Problems

If you are plagued by chronic toe numbness and/or burning sensations on the balls of your feet, and have already tried moving the cleats both forward and backward without relief, it could be that your shoes are the problem - either the shape of your shoes is just not a good match for the shape of your feet, or as mentioned earlier, the sole may be either too stiff, or not stiff enough.  It could also be that your particular pedal model or shoes don't allow the cleat to be either moved far enough forward or backwards (Speedplay makes a baseplate extender to address this issue). Some cyclists also get relief from the commercially available footbeds/insoles made by Specialized, eSoles, Superfeet, and the like.  Lastly, any of the following could be the root cause, especially if the discomfort is only on one foot: cleat rotation, improper stance width, leg alignment issues/need for wedging, pelvic asymmetry, leg length differences, and basic positioning errors. Sometimes, no amount of self help is going to do the trick, and it could be time to see a professional bike fitter who specializes in the foot/pedal interface. 

Update (7/16/11): Too much or too little room in your shoes can certainly contribute to foot discomfort. I had a client who had been tormented with hot spots/burning sensations on his feet for months and they went away immediately after he switched to a thicker sock. I suspect a thicker insole may have also done the trick. Some may have the opposite problem, and should try thinner socks. Some people even need a different thickness of sock for each foot.

Low cadence, big gear mashing can also cause foot discomfort. If your pedaling RPMs (Revolutions per minute) don't average at leat 75, especially on relatively flat terrain, try using smaller gears and make an effort to get the RPMs up to 80+.  RPMs can really drop during extending climbing efforts, so take special care to use appropriate low gearing to keep the pedals ticking over at 70+ RPMs.

The problem 

So, what exactly is it about racing geometry that can cause sizing/fitting issues? The root of the problem is the head tube length on many racing bikes can be too short for many cyclists.  Specifically, the shorter head tube length of most of these bikes can create a situation where the saddle to handlebar drop (saddle height over handlebars) is too severe.  Many will describe the sensation as being too “hunched over” the bars or too stretched out on the bike. The potential issues and discomforts arising from these fitting issues are beyond the scope of this article, but if you’d like learn more about this topic, you can refer to these previous articles: 

Reach to the handlebars - guidelines

Reach to the handlebars - solutions  

The solution 

Rather than the typical racing geometry, many roadies would be far better served by bikes featuring geometries referred to as “Performance,” “Comfort,” “Sportive,” or even “Relaxed.” These bikes all have one thing in common – they feature sloping top tubes combined with a longer head tube, usually about 1.5 cm to 4 cm longer than the racing model of the same size.  Some of these designs will also sport a slightly shorter effective top tube, which helps shorten reach to the handlebars, and a longer wheelbase and chainstays, which provides a more stable and forgiving ride.

Want to know how much of a difference a longer head tube can have on your reach to the handlebars? Here’s a very important rule of thumb: 

For every 1 cm difference in head tube length and/or stem spacers, your reach will change by 3 mm. (reach being the distance from the nose of the saddle to the center of the handlebars at the stem). The shorter the head tube, the longer the reach. 

Saddle to handlebar drop (saddle height over bars) guidelines 

If you want to know how to measure your saddle to handlebar drop, this Park Tool link will show you how: (scroll down to item B – Saddle Height Over Bars) 

As a general rule, I strongly suggest keeping the saddle to handlebar drop in the 0 – 10 cm range* - shorter cyclists tend to be at one end of the extreme, and taller cyclists at the other.  Based on hundreds of fits, I have found that the average fit male (5’9”, 1.75 m) will usually be comfortable in 4-8 cm range and the average fit female (5’5”, 1.65 m) in the 1-5 cm range. 

Not all cyclists will need, or want, a saddle to handlebar drop that falls within my guidelines. A drop of greater than 10 cm might come into play if any of the following apply:  

• You have long arms for your height (arm span is 5 cm/2” greater than your height)
• You have great flexibility and are super fit (i.e. skinny)
• You race, or are an experienced cyclist who is used to low/aero positions  

*[I’ve written an entire article on how to choose the correct size of road bike, which can be found here. If you are on a frame that is either too large, or too small, it will often necessitate a saddle to handlebar drop that is at the extremes of, or outside, my general guideline.] 

An example of racing vs. performance geometry 

At the bottom of this article I’ve listed some of the major brand’s performance/comfort/sportive geometry style of bikes.  Let me illustrate the differences between one of those, and a racing bike from the same company:  

A.  Felt F Series (racing geometry)

Size, 54 cm

Top tube – 54.5 cm

Head tube – 12 cm

B.  Felt Z Series (performance geometry)

Size, 54 cm

Top Tube – 54.5 cm

Head tube – 16 cm 

Assuming both bikes have the same length of spacers between the stem and head tube, bike A is going to put the handlebars 4 cm lower than bike B.  Based on the rule of thumb I mentioned earlier, bike A will also have about a 1.2 cm longer effective reach than bike B (4 cm head tube difference x .3 mm = 1.2 cm). 

Fixing excessive saddle to handlebar drop 

Many cyclists I fit are on bikes that are about one or two sizes too big.  In the case of a racing style of geometry, this can be a real problem, as both the top tube is going to be too long and the head tube can also be too short. Using the same Felt F bike from the example above, the next size up from the 54 cm is a 56 cm, yet it’s going to have a head tube that is only 14 cm, and that’s still 2 cm shorter than the 54 cm Felt Z!  If your correct top tube length should be 54 cm, and you instead end up on a frame like the 56cm F series race bike, you may very well have a total effective reach that is perhaps 2.5 cm too long; that is going to be a problem. 

Trying to make a bike fit by using a short stem and/or a stem that has a steep positive rise are both potential workarounds for frames with short head tubes and/or top tubes that may be too long. My definition of a short stem is using one that is more than two centimeters shorter than the one that came with the bike. My definition of a steep rise is using a stem with angle greater than 12° - the stem positioned so that it’s angled upwards, as opposed to being flipped (referred to as a negative rise) so that the stem is somewhat level with the ground.  Both workarounds are compromises and can have a negative effect on a bike’s handling characteristics, not to mention its aesthetics - road bikes with short stems for their size and/or stems with extreme upward angles simply don’t look right. I’m not a bike snob, but this is one instance where I am somewhat “old school.”  Also, I’m not a fan of placing any more than 4 cm of spacers between the stem and head tube in an effort to raise the handlebars, especially for carbon steerer tubes; it’s not safe.  

Conclusion 

Below is a list of bikes featuring longer head tubes for a slightly more upright, back saving riding position. Make no mistake, these are not cruiser bikes, and can certainly be used for racing. In fact, many professionals are now opting to race on these types of bikes. Depending on the components and wheels selected, many of them can be built up to be super light (sub 15 lbs., 6.8 kg for a 54 cm). In the next few years I believe the industry is going to start “getting it,” and will start marketing these bikes with the same zeal as their full blooded racing machines. 

Of course, a custom built bike will usually be the best option for a perfect fit, especially for those with disproportionate lower and upper bodies.  

Lastly, if you are interested in the Look 566, Felt Z/ZW, Colnago Ace, or Bianchi Infinito/Dama, do get in touch with me.  My bike shop partner, Revolution Bike Shop has access to all these brands, and can ship globally; they are also a dealer for custom builder Guru. 

Bikes with Performance, Comfort, and Sportive Designs* 

Look 566

Felt Z /**ZW

Colnago Ace

Bianchi Infinito / **Infinito Dama

Guru Evolo (see link above)

Cervelo RS

Cannondale Synapse /**Synapse Women

Specialized Roubaix / **Amira

Giant Defy Advanced /**Avail Advanced

Trek Madone 5 & 6 Series (H3 Geometry) /**Madone WSD

Scott CR1/**Contessa

Jamis Xenith Endura /**Femme

Time NXR Instinct

Merckx EMX-3 /**EFX – 3 

Lapierre Sensium/**Sensium 100L

Lynskey Sportive (Titanium)

BH Speedrom / **Cristal

Moots Vamoots (Titanium)

Litespeed Xicon (Titanium) 

*This is not intended to serve as an exhaustive list of all such bikes. If you know of others that should be included, please email me (velofitter@yahoo.com) and I’ll add them to the list.

**Women’s version.  

To review, here are the top five fitting issues:

1. Poor alignment ("wobbly" knees/splayed legs)
2. Saddle position too high or too low
3. Poor cleat position
4. Saddle tilted too far up or down
5. Reach to the handlebars (either too bunched up or too stretched out)

Reach to the Handlebars, Part 2 (solutions) 

So, maybe you have read the previous installment (Reach to the Handlebars, Part 1), and  determined that you want to make a change - you either want to shorten the distance from the saddle to your handlebars, or you want to go the other way and lengthen the distance.  What are your options?

A.  Move your saddle forward or backward

B.  Lengthen or shorten your stem

C.  Change the stem angle/rise

D.  Remove stem spacers

E.  Switch to handlebars with different reach

       A.  Change the fore/aft position of your saddle

The fore/aft position of the saddle should be set so that you have the proper relationship to the bottom bracket of the bike. IF THE FORE/AFT POSITION IS CORRECT, DO NOT ADJUST YOUR REACH TO THE HANDLEBARS BY MOVING YOUR SADDLE FORWARD OR BACKWARD. Assuming your fore/aft position is in the correct range, moving the saddle outside of this window to shorten or lengthen your reach can lead to discomfort or injury. 

So, how do you determine the correct range for your fore/aft position? The answer deserves far more attention than I can give it within the confines of this post (a separate article will be forthcoming), but for now I'll leave you with a very simple, rough guideline (a slightly modified version of KOPS - knees over pedal spindles).  First, you'll need a plumb bob (a length of thread with a nut tied to one end works fine), a stationary trainer, and a riser for the front wheel: 

• Put your bike in a trainer on a flat surface 
• Warm up for 10-15 minutes
• Stop pedaling with the crank arms parallel to the ground (in the three o'clock, nine o'clock position)
• Drop the plumb bob off the front of your knee cap

The end of the plumb bob should fall anywhere from about .5 cm in front of the end crank arm to about 1-1.5 cm behind it. It's important that your bike is level - the wheel axels needs to be the same height off of the ground; that's why you'll need a riser for the front wheel. The crank arms also have to be level with the ground when you stop pedaling.  Make sure you don't change the position of your heels when you stop pedaling, or else this method of establishing fore/aft saddle position can be really off the mark; it's probably best to get someone to help you with this measurement. 

If you find you are more than .5 cm in front of the end of the crank arm or more than 1.5 cm behind it, then move your saddle along its rails to get into the appropriate range.  If your crank arm length is not in the right ballpark (a topic for another day) then this method of establishing fore/aft position can also be incorrect; those with long or short inseams may be surprised to learn that they are way off the mark on their ideal crank length.

Since my suggested range gives you about 2 cm of leeway, you may be able to also fix your reach issues by moving the saddle within this range.  Cyclists who are positioned too far to the rear of the bike will often feel too stretched out.  If the bike is too big, this situation is worsened.  Conversely, a rider can feel too bunched up if they are too far forward on the bike, again a situation that is compounded if the bike is too small.  Lastly, if you do move your saddle, you may also have to adjust your saddle height.

       B. Change the stem length

Of course, the easiest way to change your reach to the handlebars is to swap out your stem for one that is longer or shorter.  Use the ranges in the following chart as sensible guidelines to match your frame size with the appropriate length of stem.

If you feel like you need to use a stem outside of the ranges for your given frame size to get comfortable, there is a pretty good chance your bike is either too large or too small.  Using an overly long or short stem can lead to a bike that doesn't handle very well - super short stems make a bike feel "twitchy," or super responsive, and overly long stems can cause a bike to feel just the opposite, somewhat "sluggish."  For further guidance on frame sizing, I've written another article, which can be found here:  How to Choose the Correct Size of Road Bike

       C.  Change the stem angle/rise

Another way to change your reach is to raise or lower the handlebars by flipping your stem, or getting another one with a different rise - raising the bars shortens your reach and lowering lengthens it. Want to know how much a different rise will affect your reach?  A typical scenario: flip a 110 mm stem with 7 degrees of +/- rise, and your reach will change by 8 mm.  Here are a couple an excellent tools that I would suggest you bookmark, as it will allow you to calculate the difference in reach for any stem/angle/spacer combo:

Web based Stem Reach Calculator #1

Web based Stem Reach Calculator #2

       D.  Remove stem spacers

If you want to lengthen your reach and/or increase the vertical distance from the top of your saddle to the top of the bars, you can also remove stem spacers. Here's another handy rule of thumb: removing 1 cm of stem spacers will increase your reach by about 3mm.  Most people can't add stem spacers, and even if they could, I don't recommend any more than 4 cm of spacers in between the head tube and stem. There have been some well documented cases of catastrophic steerer tube failures, so it would be wise to adhere to this particular guideline.  

       E.  Change to handlebars with a different reach

Many cyclists aren't aware that handlebar reach (the distance from the center of the bars to the bends where the brake levers attach) can vary widely among various models and manufacturers.  This handlebar measurement will definitely affect how stretched out you might be while riding on the brake hoods, but still won't have any impact on the saddle to handlebar tops distance, as would stem length/rise.  Almost all the new gruppos (Campagnolo, SRAM, and Shimano) have redesigned the hoods to be longer, which I've noticed has lead many of my clients to want their reach shorted.  Although it's more expensive than switching to a different stem, selecting a handlebar with a shorter reach dimension can be a viable option to shorten the saddle to brake hood distance, yet keep the saddle to tops distance the same. [Update: I've written an entire article on handlebars, which can be found here.]

That concludes the series of articles on the most common bike fitting errors, and what you can do to fix them.  In the next article I'll be addressing some of the most common bike fitting questions I get asked by readers, clients, bike shops, and even other bike fitters. Thanks for reading, and please feel free to email me with ideas for future articles: bikfit@yahoo.com